18th September 2009 – Day 1 – London, Amman

This trip starts with a disappointment; my Indiana Jones hat hasn’t arrived through the post on time and that doesn’t bode well for my search for the Holy Grail… Nonetheless, my mood lifts sitting at Heathrow in front of the departure board. There’s something about being in an airport, seeing all the destinations and watching all the Chinese tourists with their medical face masks, which makes me feel like I’m living another life. In this episode, the destination is Amman and I’ve nine days to explore western Jordan.

The check-in lady seems pleased with herself, having found me a seat near the front of the plane. I smile and ask if that will get me there faster and she looks at me like I’m a complete moron. She then shakes her head and gives me a serious, “er, no….”

Fortunately, the Jordanians seem friendlier; the flight is great (with metal cutlery!) and I’m particularly impressed seeing how they cater for those still on Ramadan. I’m even more impressed with the bloke at Amman airport with a ‘Carlo Bezoari’ sign, even if it does seem a bit daft to get excited about reading your own name…

My Jordanian driver (who likes to be called Bill) is a great chap and that makes the 45 minute drive to the city absolutely fly by. At 02.00 local time, I settle down for my first night’s sleep in the Middle East and I can’t wait for the exploring to begin.

19th September 2009 – Day 2 – Amman

It turns out that my hotel is far from the city centre. Armed with a map and a piece of paper with the name of the Citadel ruins (both in Arabic) I head for the streets and catch a cab. Despite the driver’s compulsive need to cough up phlegm into a tissue every two minutes, the drive is easier than expected and I soon arrive in the Jebel el-Qalaa region of Amman. Thousands of years old, it’s clear why this has always been the city centre; 360 degree views are impressive and one can relax in near-silence above the bustling market streets.

I’m soon approached by a friendly guide who takes me around and gives me more information about Jordan than I can possibly digest. The Temple of Hercules, the Omayyad Palace and the Archaeological Museum (containing parts of the actual Dead Sea scrolls) are the stand out features and the lack of many tourists means I can totally immerse myself in history.

Below the Citadel, the downtown area contains further Roman ruins and thousands of market stalls. My guide seems to think I’ve never seen herbs before and shows great delight in showing me fresh thyme and rocket leaves, before stopping and buying about 20 tomatoes (examining each one meticulously) from whom he claims is the best tomato grower in Amman! These comments would be charming, if he didn’t keep coughing up phlegm into a tissue and then putting it in his pocket…

He also insists on taking photos of me everywhere; I’m tempted to do a couple of jumping photos, but I’m not sure he’ll get it, so I save them for later on.

Next is the Roman Theatre, which can hold 6,000 people and has been maintained fantastically . The acoustics are sublime; I’m told to stand on stage and shout like an opera singer and my voice echoes around the theatre like I’ve never heard before. However, the locals must have high standards, as I don’t get so much as a whisper of an applause.

I’m absolutely starving, since I’ve had no breakfast or lunch, so I wander the streets to find some food. Two hours later and all I’ve found is a garage of kids putting coal into hundreds of bags and a row of shops with tightly-caged animals (who look hungrier than I am). I keep searching but since it’s Ramadan, I have absolutely no luck. I catch a cab back to the hotel area and this driver’s phlegm coughing really takes the cake; it sounds like he’s coughing up a lung and each time he does it, his car swerves across the road. After he tries to rip me off, I spot a row of fast-food chains, but fortunately resist the sinful temptation to have a Whopper meal. Completely desperate for food, I finally find a modern coffee shop (that even has an apt poem about how magical food is!) and persuade them to make me a sandwich.

In the hotel I’m transferred to another room where I’m introduced to the guy who’ll be my room-mate for the next eight days. Unbelievably, it’s the Danish guy from the Roman Theatre who asked me to a take a photo for him! We share a couple of beers before meeting the rest of the group; half of them are from various locations around the US, there’s also a French couple, a Swiss girl and two girls from the Netherlands. We find a local restaurant serving simple food, so with a non-alcoholic beer and whilst smoking a shisha (which gives me an unbelievable head rush like being back in Amsterdam!) I have a great time getting to know my new travel buddies.

20th September 2009 – Day 3 – Jerash, El-Azraq, El Uman, Amman

It’s about an hour’s drive to Jerash, 31 miles north of Amman. I’ve seen Roman cities several times, yet this is still an incredible site. From Hadrian’s Arch, the Oval Plaza to the numerous theatres, it oozes with history and its remains (only discovered in the 1920s) really give a sense of the size and significance it must have had in the first few centuries AD. The Cardo, a 600m paved street is the city’s “Broadway”, and the chariot tracks are still visible in the 2000 year old stones.

The original plan was to head back to Amman, but all 15 of us (three Canadians joined overnight) agree to see the desert castles, east of Amman. The five hour round trip is worth it; all three castles are unique (I particularly like the one-tonne stone doors that you can still push open and closed) and the desert views give a scale of the vast emptiness in the Middle East.

At the furthest point from Amman, we’re 30km from Saudi Arabia and just 200km from Iraq! We stop for photos of the road signs and a group of curious local kids come over and watch my jumping photos. I try to get them to jump with me (especially as one of them has a toy gun, that looks frighteningly real!) but they don’t understand and just stare and laugh at me instead!

The beautiful sunset makes it an enjoyable drive back to Amman and thanks to the French couple’s fantastic guidebook, we find an excellent restaurant with real, traditional, local food. However, it’s in a posh area of the capital and seems like a million miles away from Downtown, which clearly goes to show the dramatic divide between rich and poor.

21st September 2009 – Day 4 – Dead Sea, Amman

As we cross the mountains I catch my first glimpse of the Dead Sea. I’m not sure what I was expecting (perhaps for it to look more like a lake since it’s not actually a sea), but it just looks exactly like any other sea.

At 411m below sea-level, the lowest place on earth, the sun is blisteringly hot. The Dead Sea is famous for its very high concentration of salt (so much so that the water is so full of minerals that it’s actually 26% solid), yet there’s not even a sniff of salt in the air.

I wade into the sea and the moment I try to swim, I feel the difference; you float without trying and submerging yourself is near impossible. Not that you’d want to; the water is so salty that it stings your lips and eyes. That said, it’s supposed to be wonderful for your skin, so I bob around in my natural health spa.

There’s also the option to cover every inch of your body with Dead Sea mud. It’s great fun and makes for some fun photos. Even more photogenic are the number of local women still dressed in Burqas, whilst covering their hands and feet in mud and sitting on the shoreline.

After lunch, I ask about the huge salt rocks along the coastline, so we make a detour to see them. The views are spectacular and Israel is clearly visible across the Dead Sea.

Our guide, Riad, seems to be in a chirpy mood today and tells us story after story along the route back to Amman. We all quiz him on rules around the number of wives a man can have in Jordan and he shows a real humorous side of his character. One tale is of some men who were offered a choice of many women, only for them to say that they would prefer some men. We’re both amused and speechless as he shakes his head in disgust and with utmost sincerity he says, “Yes, these men were SICK”!

Surprisingly, most of the group are happy to eat at a local fast-food joint near the hotel. I’m pleased that Tonny and the Dutch girls (Eline and Desirée) are keen to see more of Amman, so we take another crazy taxi ride to Rainbow Street, a nice area of the centre where a lot of the wealthier young locals seem to spend their evenings.

It’s on a hillside, looking west across the city centre and the rooftop terrace makes for a gorgeous view whilst dining the evening away.

22nd September 2009 – Day 5 – Amman, Mount Nebo, Madaba, Wadi Mujib, Karak, Petra

There were always going to be a couple of days of long travelling and today was one. We stop plenty of times, but after an awful night’s sleep (I can only blame myself and the 10pm Turkish coffee for that) I’m quite pleased to sit back and see the desert scenery from the bus window.

The day’s highlights were Mount Nebo (with great views across the Dead Sea into Israel, made more impressive with the knowledge that it was the very place Moses saw the Promised Land before he died) and further south, Wadi Mujib, an enormous valley that reminds me of the Grand Canyon and also offers some stunning panoramic views with winding roads through the mountains.

Madaba was less impressive. I’m not a fan of mosaics and although it was interesting to see how they are made, the Madaba Mosaic map (showing the Palestine/Egypt region) was slightly under-whelming, evening if what it depicts was actually quite interesting.

Karak is a town on the top of a hill with great 360 degree views. However, the castle is less exciting than my guidebook indicates and I’m quite pleased to hit the road for the final 130km to Petra.

23rd September 2009 – Day 6 – Petra

Today was arguably the best day of my life. Petra is simply gob smacking and I lost count the number of times I was left speechless in awe. The entrance opens at 06.00 and the original plan was to leave the hotel at 07.30. I don’t want to lose a single minute and once again it’s Tonny and the Dutch girls who feel the same, so we leave at 05.45 to arrive on the dot.

It’s a decision none of us regret. We walk along the 1.5km Siq and there’s total silence. The huge walls that lead to one of the world’s most famous sites is completely empty and it’s an absolute privilege to have it to ourselves. Each step takes us closer to the Treasury and it’s like a little teaser around each bend of the Siq.

Finally, I see it: the photo I’ve been dreaming of is before my eyes and there’s not a single person in sight. I take my obligatory jump photo and then walk the final steps of the Siq as the Treasury opens up in front of me.

Of course, the direct sunlight is still hidden from the huge mountain walls, but nothing can beat standing alone in front of one of the new Seven Wonders of the World.

A camel owner soon arrives and lets us know that there’s a short climb that gives us a higher view of the Treasury. The ‘no climbing’ signs don’t stop us (after all, there’s no one to tell us off!) and the view from the top is sublime.

Other tourists start arriving and we move further into Petra. Around every corner there’s another stunning building, carved out of the mountain itself and each time it takes my breath away. Each one is unique so it’s an absolute photography heaven.

I never did get my Indian Jones hat, so after a quick coffee near the Roman Theatre, I settle for a keffiyeh, which I desperately need to keep me cool in the strong sun. We quickly head back to the Treasury, to see what it’s like with the sun shining perfectly on the rock walls and the number of tourists shocks me; it makes my early start feel even more rewarding.

The walk to the High Place of Sacrifice is a winding climb to 1,035m, with beautiful rock formations everywhere to be seen along the route. From the peak, where animal and human sacrifices were carried out, the view of the city of Petra is breathtaking. The cliff-edges hang over the canyons invitingly and I can almost hear my mother’s disapproval as I sit over the edge and stare down into the abyss.

Further tombs are scattered along the rest of the walk and as we descend from the mountain, the fantastic Royal Tombs appear before our eyes.

There’s a fun incident with a young boy who helps tie my keffiyeh and then follows us for ages offering us his ‘air-conditioned taxi’ (camel!) and after a late lunch we head to the Monastery. It’s a Petra highlight and once again we’ve timed it to perfection: Most people are leaving (which is surprising in itself since it’s only 16.00) and our 30 minute climb takes us to the unbelievably well-preserved Monastery at the top, where we once again can take pictures without another tourist in sight. A further climb gives some great views across the canyons to the west.

The sun is low in the sky, which means time is running out, but the light makes the ruins even more beautiful. A quick descent past the closing stalls (with shouts of ‘happy hour’ prices!) and a walk through the city of Petra takes us to the Royal Tombs. By this time, sunset is nearing and the warm colours of the rock are stunning on this stretch of wind-eroded tombs.

The final walk past the treasury and through the Siq is tiring, but we’ve packed two days worth of sights into just over 12 hours and I couldn’t have dreamed of a better day. Yet the best was still to come: Three nights a week, the Siq and Treasury are opened at night and we’re lucky enough that tonight is one.

After dinner we return to the Siq and about 300 people are ready for the night walk to the Treasury. With tripod in hand, I set up for a night shot and everyone streams ahead. Within moments, I’m completely alone without a sound in the air and the mysterious Siq all to myself. It’s quite simply one of the most magical moments of my life. That said, some travel advice if you ever find yourself alone in the Siq: Don’t fart! It echoes around like a volcano eruption!

The candle-lit view of the Treasury is just as special as when I first saw it in the morning and for the remainder of the evening I sit in front of it with the others, listen to the local live music, seemingly transported thousands of years back in time.

24th September 2009 – Day 7 – Petra, Wadi Rum

A couple of hours drive and it feels like I’m in a different part of the world. Gone is the endless mountainous terrain, replaced by a flat, sandy landscape with large rocks screaming 600m out of the floor like they are lost in the desert.

Wadi Rum is a mix of yellows, reds and browns, contrasting wildly and I can’t wait to explore. We arrive at our desert lodge and after a quick bite, jump into the two 4×4s. We’re completely baffled and amused by our shockingly young driver (I don’t exaggerate when I say he looks no older than 10 years old!) Nevertheless, we start our adventure bouncing our way through the sandy desert.

We fly up and down the sand dunes and occasionally stop for photos, although the heat is intense, hinting how dangerous and remote this area really is.

At one steep, sandy-covered hill, we’re in hysterics as we attempt to race up and down it on foot. Tonny looks like he was born in the desert as he flies up and down. Then in the race down, I fall flat on my face in a cloud of sand which makes for some amusing photos.

The Jebel Umm Fruth Rock Bridge is one of two natural bridges, eroded through time and offering breathtaking panoramas. We then move to an elevated rock, sipping tea and watching the beautiful desert sunset.

In the evening, we experience a Bedouin Barbeque, which involves the food being cooked over several hours in a zerb oven, buried into the sand. We sit around a fire, smoking water pipes, listening to the local Bedouin music (and not forgetting 10% Petra beer!) It’s the end of two incredible (and wildly different) days, yet tomorrow at the Red Sea has the potential for another just as good.

25th September 2009 – Day 8 – Wadi Rum, Aqaba, Red Sea

I decide against the early morning camel ride since I’ve done that before and I needed a good night’s sleep. I’m pleased I did, since it’s another energetic day when we arrive in Aqaba, the only access point Jordan has to the sea.

After dropping things off at the hotel, the French couple, Dutch pair, Tonny and I opt for scuba diving whilst the rest of the group go snorkelling with a glass bottom boat.

We’re just 3km away from the Saudi border as we take our fast-track scuba lessons and jump into the Red Sea. It’s fun, but the time flies by and only once I’m used to the equipment do I start to really enjoy it, but by then the time is nearly up.

We chill on the beach and it’s strange to see girls in bikinis drinking beers and western music pumping, which is a complete contrast to the strict Islamic lifestyle I’ve see everywhere else.

Stranger still, is swimming in the sea knowing that I could go in any of four directions, reaching Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Israel or Egypt!

It’s a blisteringly hot evening in Aqaba and the five of us (Tonny went out with the others) drink tea on a table by the beach (with the waves gently reaching our feet) before an enjoyable meal in the bustling centre of Aqaba.

26th September 2009 – Day 9 – Aqaba, Red Sea, Amman

I go scuba diving again in the morning and now I’ve finally figured out to stop bobbing up and down like a yoyo, I really enjoy the experience. I go deeper too, and at around 20m it’s like being on another planet to spin under water and look up to the sky, seeing the water surface so far away.

The corals are beautiful and the fish unbelievably varied. I try some photos with a disposable camera and I’m eager to see how many times I’ve caught Nemo on film!

I snorkel for the remainder of the morning and get a nice sunburned back in the process, but it’s a truly relaxing way to end such a varied and energetic few days.

We drive along the King’s Highway back to Amman. It was Saddam Hussein who paid for this long road that stretches the length of Jordan and he even gave the country free oil in return for Jordan’s alliance. Interestingly, Jordan was the first Middle Eastern country to oppose Iraq when the international conflicts grew!

We quiz Riad on his religious beliefs and it’s interesting to learn more about Islam and the views on the western world from a first hand perspective.

Our final evening is another is another restaurant with local food and yet another that the king himself has visited. Afterwards, there are goodbyes, although some amusingly awkward; we’ve all got on well, but with such a large group, it’s hard to get to know everyone well.

Since it’s still not late, Eline, Desirée, Tonny and I share some beers on the hotel patio (plus a few tokes of a ridiculously strong Egyptial shisha) and so ends an unforgettable first trip to the Middle East.