13 months ago AC Milan became European Champions and I had just visited a rain-soaked Madrid, completely devoid of tourists. This weekend in Madrid was sunny, warm and full of young travellers taking in the sights.

It would have been great for photos, but apart from a brief tour of Parque del Buen Retiro and a couple of other of the capital’s attractions, I’ve managed to spend most of the weekend in restaurants and bars, stuffing my face with tapas and cañas. Vida difícil!

I’m in the capital of Spain and I’m watching Madrid’s scenery on television. The newsreader tells me that the thunderstorms and rain is widespread across central and northern Spain.

The day didn’t start this badly. In fact, I’ve walked several kilometres today, mostly in the Parque Del Buen Retiro, and Madrid is exactly as I expected it to be. Typically, I couldn’t be much further east from the hotel when the storm hits and I get completely soaked. It brings an end to a day where my camera barely leaves my bag.

21st May 2007 – Madrid

The clouds have shifted and Madrid’s colours appear around me. I’ve a positive impression so far, but I don’t feel this city has been built for photographers. Maybe I haven’t got my photography head screwed on, but I actually find very little to shoot.

Furthermore, I’m told photography isn’t allowed in the Palace. Worse still, I’m told I have to leave my camera and all my lenses in a cloakroom. It really annoys me, but the efficiency in which they refund the entry tickets indicates that they probably have this problem quite often.

Heading further south, there’s the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena which has a lovely west-facing garden across the city suburbs. The guidebook recommends a cheese shop, a buzzing market and a coffee shop resembling one you’d find in the 1930s. All three are closed. So I try the nuns’ convent. They sit behind a revolving wooden window, selling cakes and biscuits and they remain hidden from customers at all times. I ring the bell, although there’s no indication I’m ringing the right one and I feel I’m disturbing someone’s private home.

‘¿Hola?’ cries an old lady’s voice through the intercom. It’s a voice you’d expect to hear when Little Red Riding Hood knocks on her Spanish grandmother’s door…

‘Hola,’ I reply. ‘¿Vendes de dolces?’

‘Estamos cocinando!’ Cries the voice… I vision a bunch of little old nuns running around a kitchen, frantically preparing dough and cake mixture! She says to come back at four pm.

La Plaza Mayor is large but uninspiring, which sums up quite a lot of Madrid. It’s a lovely city, in which I could quite happily see myself living, but as far as tourism goes, there’s not so much to offer someone other than the abundance of art in its three main museums.

Of course, a visit to Madrid is not complete for a football fan without seeing the Santiago Bernebeu. However, again I’m disappointed and I decide against the stadium tour.

After finding another coffee shop closed, I decide to ignore any more Lonely Planet recommended destinations and choose a restaurant. It turns out to be a bad choice, but it is now time to re-visit the nuns.

I’m instructed through some alleyways behind the huge door and I’m suddenly faced with a revolving door about the size of a small cupboard. The lady’s voice returns and she asks what I want. There’s a list of products on the door so I name the first one. The door starts to revolve and I’m guessing she wants some money. My Euros disappear and then there’s some frantic whispering from the other side. The door then spins again and suddenly there’s a pack of biscuits in front of me. I’m sure it’s not what I asked for, but before I have a chance to think about it, the door spins and the biscuits are gone! A few other tourists are watching this show and we all start laughing, a bit confused as to what I’m supposed to do next. Clearly the nuns find it funny too; they’re giggling to themselves behind the door. There’s a bit of a pause and then the biscuits return, this time in a plastic bag. ‘¡Tómelos!’

The sun is out in full force, so it’s much more pleasant at the Parque Del Buen Retiro second time around. The lazy afternoon turned into a lazy evening too, with a little too much sangria and much too little night photography.

22nd May 2007 – Madrid to Toledo

An early start, a super efficient train and I’m in Toledo by 9am. I’ve been looking forward to Toledo as I’ve been promised a bit of a photographic adventure. It’s therefore disappointing to report that it’s all very much over-rated.

Yes, there are narrow streets and old building everywhere. Yes, the small city is a maze of historical architecture and yes, the whole place sits almost impossibly on the top of a huge hill.

However, I’ll remember the traffic. I’ll remember that each corner I turned in its labyrinth risked a potential collision with a speeding vehicle. I’ll remember the scaffolding absolutely everywhere. The demolished buildings. The unfinished re-developments. The thousands and thousands of tourists. Oh, and did I mention the traffic?

It’s a real shame as there were parts I liked. Towards the south-west, the number of tourists diminished and further south it seems devoid of visitors all together. It meant that you could appreciate getting lost in the streets and enjoy the fact that you’d never know whether it’s a steep up or downhill climb around each corner.

Sick of the fact photography was not allowed in most building attractions, I followed the road south of the Tagus river, which climbed as high as Toledo’s peak, giving a fantastic view of the entire region. The lack of noise and the seemingly peaceful Toledo is how I’d like to have remembered it.

That idea is washed away, literally, as the thunder storms and rain brings more water than the area has seen in months. It also means there’s no chance of any night photography.

23rd May 2007 – Toledo to Valencia

Ce l’abbiamo fatta! Siamo campioni d’Europa meno di un anno dopo la vittoria a Berlino! Ho sofferto molte delusioni nella mia vita calcistica (Argentina nel ‘90, Brasile nel ‘94, Francia nel 2000, Marsiglia nel ‘93, Liverpool nel ‘05…) ma in questo periodo siamo campioni del mondo e campioni d’Europa. Forza Italia e forza Milan!!

The day starts well. Before leaving Toledo, there’s time to further explore the south eastern area along the river. It’s calm with the noise of the water being the only sign of time passing. It looks like you could cross the river at one point when the water level is lower and I make a point to find out whether you can (note: I still haven’t found out’). Despite the relatively strong current, fish occasionally jump from the water, trying to swim upstream.

Of course, a visit to Toledo’s cathedral is a must and fortunately photography is allowed. I’ve seen some impressive cathedrals before, but the fact this huge building was built for such a small number of people at the top of such an extraordinary location makes it all the more impressive.

The efficient train arrives back in Madrid in plenty of time for the 14.00 to Valencia and I ask for tickets.

‘No,’ says the ticket salesman. I pause, awaiting an explanation… He stares at me blankly, so I ask him why not. ‘El tren hay una problema.’ Great.

He tells me the next train is a regional one that leaves at 4pm. Bearing in mind Milan’s Champions League Final in Athens is at 20.45, I check the arrival time.

‘A las diez’… Mierda. I guess a bus trip is in order.

After an extraordinarily awkward discussion with the information desk (who tells me he only gives ‘train’ information) I finally find the bus station. This ticket salesman jokes whether I really want a ticket to Valencia. I’m confused. He points to my Milan shirt and then asks whether I’d actually prefer a ticket to Athens..!

The trip isn’t as bad as I expected. The four hours is split in two with a 20-minute refreshment halfway there. Best of all, was the screening of ‘Flight of the Phoenix’ during the last two hours, which helped time pass quickly. The opening crash sequence also made me quite grateful I wasn’t flying to Valencia!

My first impressions of Valencia are positive, although my mind was more focused on finding a restaurant showing the game, which I did. Despite the joyful ending, it has been a long day and celebrations are relatively reserved: Tomorrow I’ve a new city to explore!

24th May 2007 – Valencia

Valencia is a fantastic city. I’ve only had a day and a half to explore it, but is vibrancy and youthful environment makes it so enjoyable. Every corner I turned, there’s something to see, from the sublime fresh food market, to narrow, twisting streets and plazas everyfew dozen metres.

There are other tourists and there are plenty of cars, but it just seems so much more relaxed than Madrid or Toledo. Much of the traffic is directed around the centre and alongside the very impressive old river bed. The old river Turia flowed along what is now a massive long area of grassland, football pitches and other sports facilities.

Coffee shops are unique in style and nearly everyone treats you like you’re the first tourist they’ve ever seen. If Madrid is a middle aged man, and Toledo is his retired father, then Valencia is the eldest son at university!

The highlights of the day (other than the obvious tourist attractions) included discovering the Café de Los Henas (with its own coffee dessert which has shot to the top of my list: Espresso, Khalua and a ball of vanilla ice cream all in a tall glass!), relaxing in the massive Jardines del Real o Viveros (reading about Milan’s victory in Gazzetta Dello Sport) and seeing the way that the city is so beautifully lit at night.

I can say with confidence that I’ll return especially as there’s still much to see. Even at the top of the numerous view points (including the impressive Cathedral) you can see how much more there is to explore, in particular the port and sea-front that I did not see at all.

Tomorrow lunchtime I leave Valencia and travel 100km south to see my parents for a few days. After walking at least 20km per day for the past five days, a relaxing family reunion with sangria and barbeques is just what the doctor ordered!

My sponsorship has gone very well. So far I have raised £838 – thanks very much for all for your donations. My target is actually £1000, so if any of you haven’t sponsored, please go here (!): www.justgiving.com/carlobezoari

Last weekend Emma and I went to Scotland. We decided on the ’sleeper’ train to Inverness (ok – that wasn’t exactly the best idea I’ve ever had) and then rented a car which took us nearly 500 miles around the Highlands. Despite the bad weather, I got some nice photos and we had a really good time. Paddling in the North Atlantic Ocean, the mound of haggis I ate, the cave exploring and the (unsuccessful) search for Nessie were definitely the highlights!

Easter was spent in Spain, which was a week of sun, pool and chilling – not the usual holiday I have, but very relaxing. What was even more relaxing was our day in a fancy London spa! Saunas, ice showers, herbal teas and spiritual music sounds all a bit pretentious, but it was really good fun! I recommend it to anyone who regularly commutes on sweaty trains in rush hour!

Something that has kept me very busy has been my (relatively) new hobby – video editing. I’ve now uploaded my two videos to my website; one of the train trip I did in 2004 (originally called ‘train trip 2oo4′) and the second of my ski trip in 2005 (a more respectably titled ‘three boards and a pair of skis’). Bear in mind you’ll need a pretty good internet connection to view them.

I’m getting better at editing, so my next video with (wait for it…) special effects (!!) is waiting in the wings and hopefully will be available next month.

Our journey commences! We left Warmingham at 3pm hoping 10 hours to get to the Channel Tunnel was enough – taking into consideration my map-reading skills. Fortunately, Sarah decided to take over and we arrived soon after 9pm. A small concern was that they couldn’t find out tickets, but some clever talking did the trick as we found ourselves under The Channel four hours early. Ignoring the fact that Sarah walked in on a German on the loo – a successful start to our adventure!

We arrived in France at around 11pm French time. After some desperate searching for a comfy campsite, we accepted our fate: A night in a car outside a petrol station.

16th July 2001

Waking to the beautiful, natural sounds of the motorway, I thought a shower would complete my wake-up call. I fully understood the French service station attendant when they explained I could use their shower, but there was no hot water. What I failed to understand – was just how cold…

Now fully awake and advising Sarah to take an equally refreshing delight (she declined), we took to the road once more. With the French radio blasting and the little Micra crawling, we enjoyed a quite trip to Paris; arriving just in time for rush hour!

With a bit of skill and a little more luck, we found our first proper stop: ‘Camping Bois de Boulogne’. Quite cheap, still not very comfy.

After setting up camp on some rather stony ground we headed for the centre of Paris. We saw the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe, along with all the designer shops on the Champs Elysees. It was sunny but got a bit nippy later on so we headed back to camp. Very tired – so the hard ground didn’t affect our sleep too much.

P.S. Decided to invest in a sleeping mat for tomorrow night.
P.P.S. Went to Pompidou Museum and saw lots of priceless art. I reckon I could do better.

17th July 2001

Lots of rain. A bit of wind – some more clouds and a lot more rain. We took shelter under the Arc de Triomphe and got photographer by lots of Americans.

After taking a peek at Planet Hollywood, we went on a drive but got caught in the rush hour on the Paris inner ring road. Lots of angry French business people. Went to La Defense and saw tome groovy modern buildings, including La Grande Arche.

After a bit of late night shopping, we legged it back to camp to catch the last bus to town so we could climb the Eiffel Tower at night. It was far less busy and even more beautiful. We nearly had to walk home but we jumped on the last Metro train to get back. Phew.

P.S. Slightly better night’s sleep due to today’s sleeping mat investment.

18th July 2001

With a bit of persuasion, Sarah finally got me out of bed. Even more rain today. I managed to drag Sarah to the Stade de France to look at the grass. It was really, really good. Sarah wasn’t quite as impressed but I thin she was holding in her true feelings for football (again).

Back to the car and windscreen wipers on again, as we set off to the Museum of Science and Industry. There, we learned very little, with the exception of the mathematics department! We also saw a pretty awful 3D show but a three mirrored triangle type room made up for it!

Out of the museum and into more rain. We set off south expecting to leave the bad weather behind us. After a few changes of minds, we decided to head towards Poitiers, a bit further than originally planned. We arrived just in time, to book in and set up camp in the Camping Futuriste just near (and overlooking) Futuroscope.

We were both impressed with the modern site (and pool!) and the ‘future park’ tomorrow.

P.S. It’s still a bit rainy but a wee bit better
P.P.S. The pool has a slide. Nice.

19th July 2001

Today was Futuroscope day! We spent the whole day on bumpy 3D rides and lots of clever special FX which I really liked. We ate candy floss and burger and sweets and chips and crisps and chocolate crepes – so a very healthy day! Tomorrow we are back on state baguettes and cheap bottled water.

We managed to see every ride but one – so we did really well. Sarah’s favourite was the 3D Atlantis film. Mine was the groovy, bumpy ride through the streets of Vienna.

At the end of the day, we saw a pretty spectacular water and fire display with lots of laser lights. It was rather impressive – in fact, Sarah now thinks it was better than the Atlantis underwater thing!

P.S. Bit of sun today
P.P.S. Showers here are really lovely.

20th July 2001

Unfortunately we had to leave the futuristic park and campsite and head west this time. After a few wrongs turns we finally arrived in a beautiful seaside town called La Rochelle. Store upon store of cheap(ish) stuff and lots of tourists spending their Francs (or Euros – it is 2001 after all).

The sun went to our heads a little and we moved on after my pathetic attempt to outsmart the parking attendant – we had to pay for parking and to use the toilet. I shook my head and said ‘Mon Dieu!’

After more wrong turns and a 30 minute road trip to avoid a toll motorway, we finally arrived in Ile d’Oleron and our next stop: Rex Camping 4-star. Sounds promising.

We were a little disappointed by the smelly loos, but we were happy to see the Atlantic Ocean. I paddles but Sarah was brave and went all the way in.

Soon our tent was up and we went in search for a restaurant. The camping restaurant closed at 8.30pm for some reason so we took the car to find ourselves a yummy pizza.

Luck was on our side as we found a mini-supervan in the middle of nowhere making super yummy pizzas. I was very happy!

We set off home but the mean French camping attendant wouldn’t let us in with the car because it was too late (10.15pm!) Roll on my second attempt to win an argument in French (another fail).

Anyway, we’re back in our wee home again and ready for a trip south!

21st July 2001

Wow! What a wonderful shower! (I’ll work my way backwards this time). Really hot and powerful! I’ve shaved my semi-beard off now so I don’t look like Gulliver anymore.

The campsite tonight is really good; most probably – actually – definitely the best so far. Big swimming pools, restaurant, lots of facilities and in a nice quiet area (and lots of sunflowers for Sarah).

We were lucky to get in a s they were booked up – but the friendly Dutch bloke let us and our wee tent and car (Micky) in.

Micky took us quite a way today. All the way from the island past Saintes, through Bordeaux (with 1 hour stop looking about – not bad – very cute centre) and down towards Toulouse. We stop about an hour away from our next city at a campsite called Camping de Florence.

Our trip made me note a few things today:

1) Roundabouts are very exciting with each on having its own ‘modern art’ monument in the middle
2) French put a cut-out black wood in the shape of a man on every point where there has been a fatal accident. I guess to try and slow down future traffic. Scary how many you see.
3) Virgin Megastores in France are much more modern than in the UK!
4) Wine is bloody cheap!
5) It gets very hot as you approach Southern France!
6) Petrol stations are mad here!

At the end of today, I’ve realised how beautiful the countryside is around Bordeaux. Also – it’s very hot driving Micky down here! Finally, friendly French giving free wine on the roadside helps lots!

22nd July 2001

My feet still are a very smelly duo. However, today has been a wonderful day – by the pool all day long with the exception of me cutting my hair.

Later on in the evening we visited a cute little town called Condom – very rude! Sarah finally stood in a sunflower field and that made her very happy.

Just before bedtime, we planned the next couple of days. We’re very excited since we’re now going to visit a third country on our journey, excluding England.

P.S. We both got a bit brown today.

23rd July 2001

A poor start to the day – some poo stole my battery charger! Also, it was a bit cloudy and people were dumping their wee and stuff not far from our tent.

However, considering it was the best campsite, it was very nice to find out it was by far the cheapest yet!

We moved on towards Toulouse. We arrived at lunchtime just as all the shops were closed and found parking just outside the central shopping area. We were shocked, horrified and mortified to see three naughty women selling themselves, as we walked into the centre…

From a not-so-nice centre, we suddenly found ourselves in the main market square (apparently Toulouse has the second most number of students in France) and they all appeared to be hanging around that pretty square.

Lots of shops open now and the sun shining, we went on down the main shopping street. After some Franc spending, we went back to carry on with our journey south.

Oh – I forgot to mention, we went through Condom again and a pretty place called Auch!

An attractive and quick journey down from Toulouse and we fud another cheape place; Camping de Lac, in Foix – just on the edge of the mountains and border of France. It was a great stop – again with good facilities and a very nice pool where we played for the rest of the late afternoon. Now we’re ready for bed on possibly the comfiest ground yet!

24th July 2001

To sum up the day:

- Visited three countries
- Went in mountains
- Saw sea
- Nearly crashed

Heading south we started climbing the Pyrenees and found ourselves in Andorra after several photo (and wee) stops.

Cheap booze and electronics awaited us there and we moved on when I thought I had no water left in me.

We decided to make our way to Barcelona since there was very little in the 200km in between. We arrived between 8 and 9pm and started looking for a place. After a few wrong turns and a speeding Spaniard nearly hitting us (after my dodgy lane manoeuvre) we arrived in a youth hostel about four hours later! A rude welcome and only just getting in, we had our first beds of the holiday.

P.S. Getting bloody hot now.
P.P.S. Sarah has never been so stressed in her life. Sorry.

25th July 2001

Well, today has certainly made up for last night. We had to be up for 8am to get our free breakfast (stale bread) and be out by 10am. We were happy to do so.

With the aid of a good map, we quickly found a campsite just north east of Barcelona. We take advantage of its very good pool (and diving board) before getting the Zona 1 train to the centre. There we saw La Ramblas main shopping street with fake footy tops, people dressed as statues and artists.

We moved on to the dock which is much more modern and beautiful in the scorching dun. The shopping centre in the middle of the sea (!) had more expensive and genuine shops. It started getting into the late afternoon so we decided to visit the Nou Camp since that was out of town.

Arriving, we saw that it wasn’t too new at all and not as nice as the Stade de France. However, inside was huge and although not modern – I was very impressed (Sarah wasn’t). We saw the trophy cabinet and lots of statues and stuff in the museum.

Walking out, we saw a crowd of people around the training camp, so we wondered over and saw some players training. It was quite far away so I couldn’t recognise any of them.

Back in the centre, we saw the La Sagrada Familia, designed by Gaudi. It was unbelievably impressive! After seeing the heart of Barcelona, we returned home again on the train with (like on the way into town) a walk along the beautiful beach near our campsite.

I at most of the big baguette we bought just before going to sleep. I felt a bit fat.

26th July 2001

Not a bad night’s sleep, We got up early to play in the pool. After a few dives and plops, we headed back to Barcelona. We saw the gardens around Gaudi’s house – Park Guell. It was very cool to see how different his architecture was to others of his period.

We wondered around streets other than La Ramblas which were less touristy and it was funny to see a Gaudi building every now and again amongst all the other similar buildings.

We headed back to camp quite late and got ready for our last night in this tent for this adventure.

P.S. The Australians near our tent are drunk and rowdy…